![](\"https:\/\/lh7-rt.googleusercontent.com\/docsz\/AD_4nXcIllMVN8ECt6yXJnhrbkL5D3b0uA6hFHAvLjBOfdU8dup9G7bKLyBHN_QyKnYfxi5Q71ePBcrIhTj8bDX5lF7ypUHV3kNb5zOBZvn8T-K_WV_uHU1AlkwQ1_fo6H7FVgdsh4t03Q?key=5kNuOqWV-f5FhalFHrI9zA\")
<\/p>\n\n\n\nIntroduction<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This exhibition explores the evolution of Japanese fashion in terms of the keyword \u201cidentity\u201d and the many ways clothing can exhibit one the varied aspects of the self through the case of haori, or jackets for the purpose of being worn over kimono. This collection of garments ranges from the Edo period to the current Reiwa period, highlighting a number of haori created with varying goals in mind. While haori refers to overcoats worn with kimono, each photo depicts a garment that would be worn in a different context\u2013 temporal and physical\u2013 in comparison to the others. Clothing represents certain factors of the wearer, and in considering the make, materials, and design motifs, one can extrapolate certain information about the wearer, from occupation to sociocultural context.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Originally working with the key phrase \u201cJapan-ness\u201d,\u00a0 which I would define as referring to a work that originates from Japan\/is by a Japanese artist that in some way subverts expectations of what something that is stereotypically Japanese is, especially in relation to the period of its creation and incorporates methods of production and motifs which play with the idea of what makes something Japanese, I\u2019ve shifted to focus on the theme of Identity. As garments are multipurpose, they can be used to reflect the multiple dimensions of identity which make up an individual. Though the term is still broad, I wish to encompass national, professional, group, and individual identity within this theme. The pictured garments include the leather overcoat of a samurai, gentleman\u2019s formalwear, a WWII propaganda piece, an abstract woman\u2019s jacket, and a piece from my personal collection, created by the Kyoto Shibori Museum. Each is meant to represent a role related to the wearing or creating of a garment as an expression of one\u2019s personal beliefs, duties, and history.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Garment 1<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Jinbaori, such as this, were worn by samurai, serving practical purposes against weather and displaying status. The body and sleeves appear to be undyed, weathered leather; the lapel area is dyed yellow, the collar blue. Seams around the hem, sleeves and lapel appear neatly finished while the collar seam is significantly rougher. The collar appears to be made of non-leather textile, possibly wool or silk given other similar garments, serving as a reinforcing patch. Natural flower\/leaf and diamond motifs appear on the lower front of the surcoat and lapel. The motifs seem to have been created with resist-dye techniques, possibly tsutsugaki, a method which involves drawing design on a garment with a rice-based paste before dyeing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Creator: Unknown<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Title: Surcoat (Jinbaori)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Material: Leather, Textile<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Dimensions: H 51\u201d x W 38\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Date: 18th century<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Period: Edo<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Location: Japan<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Repository:Metropolitan Museum of Art<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Source: https:\/\/www.jstor.org\/stable\/community.18625912<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Credit:Metropolitan Museum of Art<\/p>\n\n\n\n
License: Public Domain\/CC<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Garment 2<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
![](\"https:\/\/lh7-rt.googleusercontent.com\/docsz\/AD_4nXcUq4UwISazIytBa1R206nbAcMhFuve1n9EdNx5CAgFPMSxM-YvRJq_ngwIKVCIcIE1zc7YT3hvpBny26_henxbMJ5R-4pbfsyhOYtqG-4vBLZYLTPomWyK2PcvJLz3O6Y4TZhX?key=5kNuOqWV-f5FhalFHrI9zA\")
Haori originated as part of military attire, worn as an overcoat, often including family crest motifs. This example is one of men\u2019s formal attire. The body is made of a silk fabric coloured with blue dye, as is the lapel, and the cuffs. The sleeves, except for the cuffs, as well as a portion of the chest and shoulders on the front of the garment are decorated with bird and nature motifs. The sleeve portion is embroidered with purple, gold, and metallic gold thread, appearing to be cotton and metal-wrapped thread. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Creator: Unknown<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Title: Costume of a Japanese Gentleman<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Material: Silk, metallic thread, cotton<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Dimensions: H 51\u201d x W 53 1\/2\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Date: 19th century<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Period: late Edo\/Meiji<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Location: Japan<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Repository: Metropolitan Museum of Art<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Source: https:\/\/www.jstor.org\/stable\/community.18342577 <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Credit: Metropolitan Museum of Art<\/p>\n\n\n\n
License: Public Domain\/CC<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Garment 3<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dubbed a \u2018propaganda kimono\u2019, haori such as this were common in the period surrounding World War II, often depicting wartime or other nationalist images. This example is a silk haori with a stencil printed pattern, featuring white and black stripes with occasional red highlights and red submarine motifs. The stripe pattern is irregular with varying line weights and inconsistent spacing, appearing as wave-like. The red highlights are placed sporadically between the black and white portions. The submarine motifs face many different directions, but do not intersect.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Creator: Unknown<\/p>\n\n\n\n Title: Woman\u2019s jacket (haori) with design of submarines<\/p>\n\n\n\n Material: Plain weave silk<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dimensions: 40 5\/8\u201d x 49 7\/8\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n Date: Late 1930\u2019s<\/p>\n\n\n\n Period: Showa<\/p>\n\n\n\n Location: Japan<\/p>\n\n\n\n Repository: Minneapolis Institute of Art <\/p>\n\n\n\n Source: https:\/\/collections.artsmia.org\/art\/129760\/womans-jacket-unknown-japanese<\/p>\n\n\n\n Credit: Gift of Julia Meech in memory of Lucy Harrison Gehan<\/p>\n\n\n\n License: Public Domain\/CC<\/p>\n\n\n\n Garment 4<\/p>\n\n\n\n A crepe silk haori dyed with orange and yellow irregular organic shape motif, featuring negative space filled in black with white detailing made of dots. Between the orange and yellow dyed motifs and the black, some white space remains, likely due to dyeing techniques. The lining is also silk, with a stenciled pattern of various containers and what appears to be a matcha spoon. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Creator: Unknown<\/p>\n\n\n\n Title: Vrouwen haori met abstract patroon (Trans: Womens haori with abstract pattern)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Material: Plain weave silk<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dimensions: H 52\u201d x W 33 7\/8\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n Date: 1960-1980<\/p>\n\n\n\n Period: Post-War Showa<\/p>\n\n\n\n Location: Japan<\/p>\n\n\n\n Repository: Rijksmuseum<\/p>\n\n\n\n Source: https:\/\/www.rijksmuseum.nl\/nl\/collectie\/AK-RAK-2009-3-116<\/p>\n\n\n\n Credit: Schenking Jan Dees & Ren\u00e9 van der Star<\/p>\n\n\n\n License: Public Domain\/CC<\/p>\n\n\n\n Garment 5<\/p>\n\n\n\n Created with multiple kanoko shibori techniques of connected dots alongside varying sizes of dots within squares, dyed in green and maroon brown, this haori consists of a pattern of small concentric circles with a number of larger floral motifs. The entire jacket is made of one material, a cotton fabric. Certain sections of the sleeve and body of the haori have visible white threads remaining from the dyeing process, and some of the raised texture created with the shibori technique remains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Creator: Kyoto Shibori Museum<\/p>\n\n\n\n Title: Haori in green and brown with floral pattern<\/p>\n\n\n\n Material: Cotton<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dimensions: H 32\u201d x W 49\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n Date: 2023<\/p>\n\n\n\n Period: Reiwa<\/p>\n\n\n\n Location: Japan<\/p>\n\n\n\n Repository: Personal Collection<\/p>\n\n\n\n Source: Personal image, not posted online<\/p>\n\n\n\n Credit: Chloe Loehr<\/p>\n\n\n\n License: Chloe Loehr<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n Exhibition Layout<\/p>\n\n\n\n The ideal exhibition of these pieces would be in a large room with soft lighting to create a more relaxed environment and two entrances on opposing sides of the room. The oldest piece\u2013 the samurai surcoat\u2013 and the newest piece would be displayed as exhibition highlights, each facing an entrance to the exhibit with enough space to pass between. The other pieces would be placed in chronological order, on alternating sides of the room. The first centerpiece will be the jinbaori and the second will be a contemporary haori to show the evolution of the use and styling of the garment. Each of these images are of coats which share a name, but with various roles depending on the period of origin. The original garments would be displayed, with the older pieces likely behind a protective glass, in a manner that visitors can see the garments from all angles, with generous amounts of space between the pieces. Historical background and information regarding the textile production and dyeing techniques would be included alongside the available artist information. Reproduction or similar garments would also be displayed to allow visitors to have a hands-on experience and to examine the garments more closely, or even wear them.\u00a0 The image below approximates such a layout:<\/p>\n\n\n\n These garments explore the development of various societal roles and the variations of what exactly makes up identity on a personal, professional, national, and global scale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Annotated Bibliography<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/lh7-rt.googleusercontent.com\/docsz\/AD_4nXfXMpQhgVc-vwuuTtSHSHyHcdoB22EMs9ksMcDhvMQnpV0tTIekljBUgOXmqRnQHm6KrYwHbX9ECDHAMjy6YudNyGHQK7Lbay9j2FwEmT24Mi_dcM9h3v2vaFtKpvFHhIpAJ-RUgA?key=5kNuOqWV-f5FhalFHrI9zA\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/lh7-rt.googleusercontent.com\/docsz\/AD_4nXfBXOsHLRXOaxPwNeWM5Xe8xUEJnYVCNdH53-j19V-FpKeii6-DvKCFuVSdZl7hRAUIfJJeLC2-7fH-ILZEwVceOknAtLokgqOk9y810TykbM55cobxIfN9n0ns9RuGw8wzljORGw?key=5kNuOqWV-f5FhalFHrI9zA\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/diluo.digital.conncoll.edu\/Asianart\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/image-26.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n![](\"https:\/\/lh7-rt.googleusercontent.com\/docsz\/AD_4nXefHTNvrM85c_rCh6bAJQaB50v_aAIb976r9L7IxeTx1vwRl4pFvAyFMBHKt7Zv5SdOr4uB6-Eq3CWnt5mQOe_LKmHrEEhhkknJkijUs1yf4VeHpu7DuMU5Ci3smIW9eafiILom?key=5kNuOqWV-f5FhalFHrI9zA\")